May

Turkey's share of the Mediterranean, despite the colonised resorts like Marmaris and Bodrum, is one of the wildest in Europe - a coast of empty bays, parched headlands where the mountains plunge into the ink-blue sea and pine-fringed inlets echoing to a frenzy of shimmering cicadas. To reach the best parts, you need to travel by traditional wooden 'gulet' schooner, as Denny Barnes reports:   'Captain Ali and his crew of three welcomed us aboard with champagne, a most civilised way to start a sailing holiday. He explained that we could either turn left or right out of Bodrum. The vote was for left and the sheltered Gulf of Gokova. Fine by me. There were seven double cabins on the boat, small but perfectly formed and each with its own shower, loo and double bed. Everything was made of wood, including the deck at the back where I spent most of my time, loafing around on cushions, reading and napping. Each day begin with a swim followed by a huge buffet breakfast. Then Captain Ali would ring a bell and we'd all gather for a briefing. He'd suggest a destination and we'd say, "Lovely." The crew would then hoist the five sails and I'd feel this magnificent feeling: just me and the elements. We'd usually sail to a deserted bay for lunch, sometimes staying put for the night. As well as swimming there was canoeing, windsurfing or snorkelling - the boat had all the gear. We ate ashore twice, once in a village house where the family cooked over an open fire and musicians came to play for us. We also went to a place called Oren, where Ali and his lads stocked up at the market. They also went fishing most days. The food was fantastic. In fact, it was the best holiday ever.' One week costs from £360 including meals, with drinks, flights and transfers extra, with Tussock Cruising (020 85109292; www.tussockcruising.com).